This tutorial is for all of you bag making lovers who like pockets in all varieties like me :)
It is the first part of my series of tutorials on different kinds of pockets to add to your handmade handbag. For the first part ("How to add a pouch with flap to the outside of your bag") click here.

Customize your handmade handbag by adding a very practical and spacious elasticized pocket! Not only is this pocket 3D-shaped so that you can fit more items into it – it is also divided in the center for more convenience, to keep your things organized.
I used this pocket in my All Day Out Bag sewing pattern. What I like about this pocket is that it reaches across the whole width of the bag interior - plenty of room to arrange your stuff!

For this project you will need (measurements see below):
-    2 pieces of fabric
-    1 piece of elastic

Make the pocket and stitch it to your bag lining BEFORE assembling the bag!

1) In preparation you will have to cut two rectangular fabric pieces for your elasticized pocket:

For the measurements for the pocket fabric pieces use the main body panel of your bag for help:
-    For the height of the elasticized pocket decide on where you would like the top edge of the elasticized pocket to be. Measure this height from the bottom edge of the main body panel and add 1.5 cm (1/2").
(For a medium-sized bag I recommend using approx. half the height of your main body panel).

-    For the width of the elasticized pocket use the width of your bag main body panel and add about 14 – 18 cm (5 ½ – 7”).

→ Cut 2 rectangles of that size so that you have two pieces for the elasticized pocket.
→ Cut 1 piece of elastic (length: about 3/4 of the width of the main body panel).

2) Assemble the elasticized pocket (all seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8”) unless stated otherwise):
Put the two fabric pieces for the elasticized pocket right sides together, all edges matching. Pin in place and stitch along the top edge. Fold the pocket right side out and press.
Measure and mark a horizontal line 1.5 cm (0.5“) down from the top edge. Topstitch along this line to create a channel for the elastic.

3) Attach a safety pin to each end of your piece of elastic. Pull the elastic through the channel you created on the top edge of your fabric piece.
Remove the safety pin from one end and carefully let the elastic slide into the channel so that it ends approx. 2 cm (3/4”) in from the side edge of the fabric. At 2.5 cm (1“) in from the side edge, topstitch down until you reach the bottom stitching of the channel, at the same time fastening the elastic.

4) The other end of the elastic will be in the channel. Pull it out at the safety pin. Tighten the elastic until the width of the top part of the pocket has the same width as the main body panel (see also last picture of this tutorial for reference).
Again, keep the elastic in place with your finger and topstitch down 2.5 cm (1”) in from the side edge, until you reach the bottom stitching of the channel to fasten the elastic.

5) Remove the second safety pin. Pull the fabric of the channel back to the stitching and trim the excess elastic.

6) To get the bottom edge of the elasticized pocket to be the same width as your main body panel, fold pleats at the bottom edge:
Place the pocket onto your main body panel and align the bottom edge and the side edges of both pieces. This way you will have excess fabric at the bottom, which you will use to create the pleat: On the right-hand side of the pocket, bring this excess fabric up and over to the center of the pocket and pin the fold in place.
In the picture to the right you can see the right-hand side pleat already folded and the left-hand side pleat still unfolded.

7) Repeat for the left-hand side pleat. Baste across the pleats at the bottom edge of the pocket (approx. 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the edges) to make sure they stay in place

8) Before proceeding make sure to distribute the elastic evenly over the whole width of the pocket.
Place the main body panel right side up. Place the elasticized pocket onto it, with the pleats facing up. The side edges, and bottom edge of both pieces should be aligned. Pin the pocket in place and attach it to the lining main body panel by stitching along the side edges and the bottom edge using a 0.5 cm (3/16”) seam allowance. 
If your main body panel does not have a rectangular shape but curved edges like mine, you can trim off the excess fabric of the pocket after pinning it down onto the main body panel like shown in the picture below.
To get two compartments, topstitch down from the center of the pocket.

Your elasticized pocket is all set! Proceed with assembling the lining part of your handbag.

If you would rather prefer to download this complete tutorial as a pdf file you may purchase it here for only $2.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

It doesn't happen too often but every now and then I take a look into this big green Pfaff bag which my sewing machine came in when I bought it in 2007. This bag has had one purpose ever since: keep all my UFOs - aka unfinished (sewing-)objects - out of my sight.
I am not lying when I am telling you that the last time I checked out what's in there was years ago, maybe even before the bag left Germany... who knows?

BUT! I am even more proud of myself that I took one of those UFOs and finally finished it. Yay to myself!! This project is a skirt that I started back in the days when I was more comfortable in jeans. It took me a while to figure out which kind of skirt (short and fitted) I like and this project definitely came from another era :)

I remember that I stopped sewing because I thought it looked hideous. Actually the fabric is really nice, a soft and not too thick wool fabric in black (or more like anthracite), with a little hint of white and orange. Practically matching everything!

I looked in my stash for some lining fabric and luckily I found this dark purple one. I quickly sewed up the lining skirt and attached it to the exterior. After completing the waistband there was only a buttonhole to be made and a button to be chosen. I found this purple one and thought it was perfect with the lining. Sure, I am the only one ever seeing the lining but I get a kick out of things like that - you know, when you put on your skirt, you see the purple lining and it just looks awesome with the button? Love it!

The pattern by the way was an older (German) Burda pattern which I slightly changed:
- I decided to put the zipper to the right side and not to the back.
- I put the darts to the front part of the skirt (for some reason this is where I need them when sewing cothes. Not on my butt obviously...)

After a long break from sewing garments (ever since I caught the bag making bug!) I am now getting back into sewing clothes again. I am really enjoying this process. Especially because I find it fascinating how easily and quickly a skirt or a dress can be sewn up!

Thanks for reading! If you like my skirt please feel free to leave me a comment. I am always glad for feedback :)

Happy sewing!

Only two more months of winter and then we can slowly get ready for spring... <sigh>...

To put me in the right mood I decided to make a dress out of one of the fabrics I got at Mood Fabrics in NYC in December.
I usually don't go too bold with my clothing but I just love love love the print of this knit fabric. I think it's phenomenal (just like the store I bought it from)!
(Read about my trip to Mood here)

I wanted it to be simple and casual, so I chose a New Look pattern. I made three changes:
1. I got rid of the sleeves
2. I made it a maxidress, reaching all the way to my ankles.
3. I doubled the bodice. I have a store-bought dress with a fully lined bodice and I really like it since it gives it more structure and a neat finished look.

When I bought this fabric I had absolutely no clue what to make with it. So I bought 2 yards, thinking I would be on the safe side. I am rather tall (5'9") and the fabric was hardly enough for a maxidress. I had to use another knit fabric (plain turquoise) from my stash for the inner back part of the doubled bodice.
I also couldn't play with the print like I had originally planned. The print ist bold and dark on the left-hand side of the fabric panel and kind of fades out to the right-hand side. If I had had more fabric I would have probably cut both the front and back part kind of in the center of the print. Now my front skirt panel is widely patterned and the back panel is rather plain :) To make a contrast to the colorful front skirt part I decided to use the more plain part of the fabric for the front bodice.

It took me a few moments to figure out how to line the bodice but it is actually pretty easy. I decided to share my technique with you, in case you want to try it out yourself.

How to double the bodice:
Note: for your convenience I am offering this tutorial as a PDF file if you prefer to have everything in one structured document. You may purchase it here for only $2.

1. Cut your bodice part for front and back twice each.

2. Put the two bodice front parts right sides together and pin. Stitch along the neckline and the armholes and make sure to start and stop approx. 2 cm (0.75") from the edges (see picture to the left). You will need this gap later to finish your bodice (I forgot to do it at first and sewed all the way up to the top, like shown on the pictures below. Don't do that!!). Turn right side out.

3. Repeat for the two pieces of the bodice back part.

4. Put the outer shoulder parts of the bodice back and front right sides together. Pin in place and stitch.

To do the same with the inner shoulder parts of the bodice front and back you will have to pull the two pieces through the bodice. Pin in place and stitch. Your bodice front and back will be connected at the shoulder seams now, with the gaps still open.

5. Repeat the previous step with the side seams of the bodice: Sew the side seams of the outer bodice parts rights sides together. Then sew the seams of the inner bodice parts right sides together. 

6. To close the gaps on the bodice part, simply fold the seam allowances to the inside. Then topstitch along the whole bodice part (neckline and armholes), at the same time closing the openings.

7. For the skirt part of my dress I used the two panels that came with the New Look pattern and added about 15" in length for a maxidress. The front panel is wider than the back (the back has the exact width of the back bodice). It has to be gathered to the right width so that it fits the bodice front part.
Stitch your skirt front and back together before proceeding.

8. Attach the doubled bodice to the skirt:
Put the skirt part and the bodice outer parts right sides together and stitch around the whole piece. I used a serger which will finish the edge neatly at the same time. You will be stitching through three layers of fabric: the skirt, the outer bodice and the inner bodice.

Finding the right length for my dress took me a while but I finally figured it out. I wanted it to be as long as possible, but without risking to fall or to have the fabric touch the ground (and dirt!) when not standing straight.

I had just a tiny bit of fabric left and decided to make a headband. I simply cut three strips of fabric and braided them. The strips I cut were about 4 cm (1.5") wide and 45 cm (18 ") long. To make the braid stay in place I stitched right over it at both the top and the bottom ends. Now I only have to tie the two ends together and my headband is ready to go!

I think the dress turned out really nice. I can't wait to wear it!! I hope you like it too. I am glad I already made it even though summer still seems like a million years away... Are you already sewing things for summer?
Happy sewing everyone and stay warm!

A couple of months ago I reviewed a bag sewing pattern as part of Purse Palooza over at Sara's blog. The pattern I tested was the Tandem Tote, a pattern by StudioKat Designs.
The pattern is perfect for geometric fabrics and I decided to go with this orange one. I like the way the orange shades are paired up with a hint of turquoise and navy blue in this print.
I like small bags and this one is just perfect when you only want to carry your essentials like phone, wallet and keys. The measurements are 7" x 7" x 2 ¾".

I did not run into any major problems with this pattern when I assembled the bag. Even though it is one of StudioKatDesigns older patterns with just illustrations and not color photographs I found it very easy to follow the instructions. It is not a beginner pattern, simply because the bag is small and there is a lot of detail work involved like for instance the two zippers. An advanced beginner or an intermediate sewer should have no trouble assembling this bag.

You can read about my bag winning the contest here. I was being told it was a close contest so I am even more happy about winning this! The prize is a certificate I can use to shop for StudioKat Designs products. Yay! This is actually the first time I won anything "sewing related". I have to say it is pretty awesome! How about you? Have you ever been lucky in a contest or a giveaway? If so please leave me a comment, I am very curious :)