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FREE sewing tutorial: bag making - pockets, part I: how to make an interior elasticized pocket

2/20/2014

13 Comments

 
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This tutorial is for all of you bag making lovers who like pockets in all varieties like me :)
It is the first part of my series of tutorials on different kinds of pockets to add to your handmade handbag. For the first part ("How to add a pouch with flap to the outside of your bag") click here.

Customize your handmade handbag by adding a very practical and spacious elasticized pocket! Not only is this pocket 3D-shaped so that you can fit more items into it – it is also divided in the center for more convenience, to keep your things organized.
I used this pocket in my All Day Out Bag sewing pattern. What I like about this pocket is that it reaches across the whole width of the bag interior - plenty of room to arrange your stuff!

For this project you will need (measurements see below):
-    2 pieces of fabric
-    1 piece of elastic

Make the pocket and stitch it to your bag lining BEFORE assembling the bag!

1) In preparation you will have to cut two rectangular fabric pieces for your elasticized pocket:

For the measurements for the pocket fabric pieces use the main body panel of your bag for help:
-    For the height of the elasticized pocket decide on where you would like the top edge of the elasticized pocket to be. Measure this height from the bottom edge of the main body panel and add 1.5 cm (1/2").
(For a medium-sized bag I recommend using approx. half the height of your main body panel).

-    For the width of the elasticized pocket use the width of your bag main body panel and add about 14 – 18 cm (5 ½ – 7”).

→ Cut 2 rectangles of that size so that you have two pieces for the elasticized pocket.
→ Cut 1 piece of elastic (length: about 3/4 of the width of the main body panel).

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2) Assemble the elasticized pocket (all seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8”) unless stated otherwise):
Put the two fabric pieces for the elasticized pocket right sides together, all edges matching. Pin in place and stitch along the top edge. Fold the pocket right side out and press.
Measure and mark a horizontal line 1.5 cm (0.5“) down from the top edge. Topstitch along this line to create a channel for the elastic.
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3) Attach a safety pin to each end of your piece of elastic. Pull the elastic through the channel you created on the top edge of your fabric piece.
Remove the safety pin from one end and carefully let the elastic slide into the channel so that it ends approx. 2 cm (3/4”) in from the side edge of the fabric. At 2.5 cm (1“) in from the side edge, topstitch down until you reach the bottom stitching of the channel, at the same time fastening the elastic.
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4) The other end of the elastic will be in the channel. Pull it out at the safety pin. Tighten the elastic until the width of the top part of the pocket has the same width as the main body panel (see also last picture of this tutorial for reference).
Again, keep the elastic in place with your finger and topstitch down 2.5 cm (1”) in from the side edge, until you reach the bottom stitching of the channel to fasten the elastic.
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5)
Remove the second safety pin. Pull the fabric of the channel back to the stitching and trim the excess elastic.

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6) To get the bottom edge of the elasticized pocket to be the same width as your main body panel, fold pleats at the bottom edge:
Place the pocket onto your main body panel and align the bottom edge and the side edges of both pieces. This way you will have excess fabric at the bottom, which you will use to create the pleat: On the right-hand side of the pocket, bring this excess fabric up and over to the center of the pocket and pin the fold in place.
In the picture to the right you can see the right-hand side pleat already folded and the left-hand side pleat still unfolded.

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7) Repeat for the left-hand side pleat. Baste across the pleats at the bottom edge of the pocket (approx. 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the edges) to make sure they stay in place


8) Before proceeding make sure to distribute the elastic evenly over the whole width of the pocket.
Place the main body panel right side up. Place the elasticized pocket onto it, with the pleats facing up. The side edges, and bottom edge of both pieces should be aligned. Pin the pocket in place and attach it to the lining main body panel by stitching along the side edges and the bottom edge using a 0.5 cm (3/16”) seam allowance. 
If your main body panel does not have a rectangular shape but curved edges like mine, you can trim off the excess fabric of the pocket after pinning it down onto the main body panel like shown in the picture below.
To get two compartments, topstitch down from the center of the pocket.
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Your elasticized pocket is all set! Proceed with assembling the lining part of your handbag.

If you would rather prefer to download this complete tutorial as a pdf file you may purchase it here for only $2.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
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13 Comments
Vicky Myers link
2/21/2014 11:59:20 pm

Brilliant tutorial, perfect timing for a bag I have in mind:) Off to pin & share.

Reply
Anna
2/23/2014 05:12:39 am

Thanks Vicky! I hope I'll be seeing that bag soon :)

Reply
Teshae link
4/22/2014 11:42:36 am

I just used your tutorial to put a pocket on the side of my son's backpack...very detailed and so easy to understand! Thank you so much for posting this :)

Reply
Anna
4/22/2014 12:50:51 pm

Thanks for your lovely comment Teshae! I am glad you like this tutorial :)

Reply
Ann link
8/14/2014 06:47:35 am

I love your tutorial on elasticized pockets.
Question... Is there a reason to keep the elastic out of the side seams ??
Thank you.

Reply
Anna
8/15/2014 01:44:32 am

Hi Ann,
Thanks for your comment. The only reason I like to keep the elastic out of the side seams is that it would add a lot of bulk to your seam allowance and is harder to sew. If you have a good sewing machine and use a strong needle you don't have really have to do that. Glad you enjoyed this tutorial!

Reply
loucar link
1/3/2015 09:13:36 am

lovely , I just might order it , waiting to make time to start sewing again, thanks for the shove.

Reply
schanice
5/17/2015 05:43:22 pm

Thank you for this post just made an elastic pocket for my bag. It was my first time using elastic as well ☺

Reply
pansy
8/1/2015 02:02:21 am

This is a wonderful tutorial!! Thank you so much!

Reply
Oval Lee McKenzie
3/25/2016 06:10:53 am

Thanks for the great tutorial . Very clearly done. I'm eager to use it soon. Right now my sewing machine is broken and really neeeed it.

Reply
Debbie McCafferty
10/29/2017 07:59:32 pm

I’m confused. Shouldn’t the pocket be sewn to the right side of the lining since the lining will be covering up the wrong side of the bag?

Reply
Debbie McCafferty
7/1/2018 10:51:51 am

I just answered my own question. It is sewn to the right side of the lining. I don’t know what I was thinking 🤔.

Reply
ANGELA miranda
6/11/2018 07:41:43 am

Lindo projeto de suas bolsas muito obrigada

Reply



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    Welcome to my blog! I am an accountant who once started out her "career" in the US by designing bag and wallet sewing  patterns! My patterns are available on Etsy and occasionally I will share some of my sewing projects that I work on in my spare free time on my website.  Happy sewing :)

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