I am so excited that Caroline at Sew Can She wrote a review of one of my sewing patterns this week! It is one of my favorites, the Working Girl Laptop Bag pattern.
If you are interested in what she thinks about my pattern please head over to her blog. She picked some really nice fabrics for her project and I very much enjoyed seeing her finished laptop bag.
Click here if you want to learn more about the pattern and to see all the bags of my pattern testers. Maybe this will inspire you to make your own Working Girl Laptop Bag? In this case you may head over to my pattern shop on Craftsy!

Have a great week everyone (with hopefully lots of sewing)!

This is the second part of my series of tutorials on different kinds of pockets to add to your handmade handbag. For the first part ("How to make an inner elasticized pocket") click here.

Customize your handmade handbag by adding a very practical and spacious pouch on either the front or the back! Not only is this pouch 3D-shaped so that you can fit more items into it – it also closes with a flap, to look more stylish and to make sure all your things stay in place.
I used this pocket in my All Day Out Bag sewing pattern. I like it because it gives you a little extra space for all the things you need to carry around.

--- If you would rather prefer to download this complete tutorial as a PDF file you may
purchase it here for only $2 ---

Finished measurements:
20 x 25 cm (8“ x 10“)
Please note: The bag you are making should measure at least 25 cm (10") in height and
28 cm (11") in width to make sure this pouch fits onto it.  
The pouch will be attached to one of your main body panels. Make it and stitch it to your bag lining BEFORE assembling the handbag!

Please read all instructions before you begin.

All cutting measurements given are height x width.

All seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8”) unless stated otherwise.

Download the pattern pieces from the PDF file below and cut them out.

You need:
- Exterior fabric: 1 fat quarter
- Lining fabric: 1 fat quarter
- Fusible fleece e. g. Pellon 987F: a 20 x 55 cm (8” x 22”) piece is sufficient
- Fusible interfacing e. g. Pellon 931TD: 0.25 m (1/4 yd)
- 1 magnetic snap
- pattern pieces #1, #2 and #3 (download them from the PDF file below)

Cut:
From exterior fabric:
(1 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – pouch
(1 x) pattern piece #2 on the fold – pouch flap (outer part, with pleats)

From lining fabric:
(1 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – pouch 
(1 x) pattern piece #3 on the fold – pouch flap (inner part, without pleats)

From fusible fleece:
(1 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – pouch
(1 x) pattern piece #3 on the fold – pouch flap 

From fusible interfacing:
(1 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – pouch
(1 x) pattern piece #2 on the fold – pouch flap

Instructions

1) Make the pouch flap:
On the inner pouch flap piece (cut with pattern piece #3, the one you interfaced with fusible fleece) measure and mark 3 cm (1.25”) up from the bottom (rounded) center edge.

This spot marks the center of the magnetic snap, so make sure to position the snap with its center right on top of your marking.

Install the male part of the magnetic snap in that spot, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Set aside.

Fold the pleats at the bottom (rounded) edge of the outer pouch flap piece (cut with pattern piece #2):

On the left-hand side of the pouch flap, bring the marking for the pleat up and over to the center and pin the fold in place.

 

Repeat for the right-hand side pleat. Baste across the pleats at the bottom edge of the pouch flap (approx. 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the edges) to make sure they stay in place.

Put the two pouch flap pieces right sides together, all edges matching.

 Pin in place and stitch around all edges of the flap but leave an opening of approx. 12 cm (4.75”) at the top edge. Trim the seam allowance and notch the curves (i. e. cut small “v”s into the fabric). Be careful not to cut into the stitching. Turn the flap right side out.

Fold the seam allowance of the opening down to the inside, pin in place and press the flap. Topstitch along the rounded edge of the flap using a 0.5 cm (3/16”) seam allowance. Set the pouch flap aside.

2) Make the pouch:
On one of the pouch pieces (cut with pattern piece #1), fold the top corner down so that the two edges of the bottom darts match. Pin in place and stitch along the straight edge of the dart. Repeat with the other edge of the fabric piece and then with the two edges of the second pouch piece.

On the outer pouch piece (interfaced with fusible fleece) insert the female part of the magnetic snap by following the manufacturer’s instructions, at the spot you marked.

Put the two pouch pieces right sides together, all edges matching. Make sure the seams of the darts of both inner and outer piece match. Pin in place and stitch around the edges but leave an opening at the bottom edge of approx. 10 cm (4”). Clip the seam allowance on the curves.

Turn the pouch right side out through the opening. Fold the seam allowance of the opening down towards the inside and pin in place. Press and topstitch along the top edge of the pouch using a 0.5 cm (3/16”) seam allowance. Set aside.

3) Attach the pouch to the bag main body panel

Decide where you want your pouch to be positioned on your bag and put the pouch flap with the pleated side up onto one of the exterior main body panels of your bag (the pouch flap should be at least 3.5 cm  (1.25”) down from the top edge of the main body panel). Pin in place and attach the pouch flap to the main body panel by stitching along the straight top edge of the pouch flap, at the same time closing the opening of the pouch flap.

Put the pouch with the magnetic snap up onto the exterior main panel of your bag and match both parts of the magnetic snap (of pouch and pouch flap) as if closing the pouch. This is how you find the correct placement for the pouch. With the magnetic snap closed, make sure the pouch sits centered on the exterior main panel and that its top edge is straight. Pin the pouch in place.
Attach the pouch to the exterior main panel by stitching along the side edges, curves, and bottom edge, at the same time closing the opening at the bottom. Be careful when sewing over the corners to prevent pleats. Leave the top (straight) edge open.

Your pouch is all set! Proceed with assembling your handbag.

If you would rather prefer to download this complete tutorial as a pdf file you may purchase it here for only $2.
--- I have received many emails with questions, tips and tricks on my tutorials. Thank you all! If you would like to weigh in with a short comment please feel free to let me know what you think of my tutorial below. I am interested to hear your feedback! ---

This tutorial is for all of you bag making lovers who like pockets in all varieties like me :)
It is the first part of my series of tutorials on different kinds of pockets to add to your handmade handbag. For the first part ("How to add a pouch with flap to the outside of your bag") click here.

Customize your handmade handbag by adding a very practical and spacious elasticized pocket! Not only is this pocket 3D-shaped so that you can fit more items into it – it is also divided in the center for more convenience, to keep your things organized.
I used this pocket in my All Day Out Bag sewing pattern. What I like about this pocket is that it reaches across the whole width of the bag interior - plenty of room to arrange your stuff!

For this project you will need (measurements see below):
-    2 pieces of fabric
-    1 piece of elastic

Make the pocket and stitch it to your bag lining BEFORE assembling the bag!

1) In preparation you will have to cut two rectangular fabric pieces for your elasticized pocket:

For the measurements for the pocket fabric pieces use the main body panel of your bag for help:
-    For the height of the elasticized pocket decide on where you would like the top edge of the elasticized pocket to be. Measure this height from the bottom edge of the main body panel and add 1.5 cm (1/2").
(For a medium-sized bag I recommend using approx. half the height of your main body panel).

-    For the width of the elasticized pocket use the width of your bag main body panel and add about 14 – 18 cm (5 ½ – 7”).

→ Cut 2 rectangles of that size so that you have two pieces for the elasticized pocket.
→ Cut 1 piece of elastic (length: about 3/4 of the width of the main body panel).

2) Assemble the elasticized pocket (all seam allowances are 1 cm (3/8”) unless stated otherwise):
Put the two fabric pieces for the elasticized pocket right sides together, all edges matching. Pin in place and stitch along the top edge. Fold the pocket right side out and press.
Measure and mark a horizontal line 1.5 cm (0.5“) down from the top edge. Topstitch along this line to create a channel for the elastic.

3) Attach a safety pin to each end of your piece of elastic. Pull the elastic through the channel you created on the top edge of your fabric piece.
Remove the safety pin from one end and carefully let the elastic slide into the channel so that it ends approx. 2 cm (3/4”) in from the side edge of the fabric. At 2.5 cm (1“) in from the side edge, topstitch down until you reach the bottom stitching of the channel, at the same time fastening the elastic.

4) The other end of the elastic will be in the channel. Pull it out at the safety pin. Tighten the elastic until the width of the top part of the pocket has the same width as the main body panel (see also last picture of this tutorial for reference).
Again, keep the elastic in place with your finger and topstitch down 2.5 cm (1”) in from the side edge, until you reach the bottom stitching of the channel to fasten the elastic.

5) Remove the second safety pin. Pull the fabric of the channel back to the stitching and trim the excess elastic.

6) To get the bottom edge of the elasticized pocket to be the same width as your main body panel, fold pleats at the bottom edge:
Place the pocket onto your main body panel and align the bottom edge and the side edges of both pieces. This way you will have excess fabric at the bottom, which you will use to create the pleat: On the right-hand side of the pocket, bring this excess fabric up and over to the center of the pocket and pin the fold in place.
In the picture to the right you can see the right-hand side pleat already folded and the left-hand side pleat still unfolded.

7) Repeat for the left-hand side pleat. Baste across the pleats at the bottom edge of the pocket (approx. 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the edges) to make sure they stay in place

8) Before proceeding make sure to distribute the elastic evenly over the whole width of the pocket.
Place the main body panel right side up. Place the elasticized pocket onto it, with the pleats facing up. The side edges, and bottom edge of both pieces should be aligned. Pin the pocket in place and attach it to the lining main body panel by stitching along the side edges and the bottom edge using a 0.5 cm (3/16”) seam allowance. 
If your main body panel does not have a rectangular shape but curved edges like mine, you can trim off the excess fabric of the pocket after pinning it down onto the main body panel like shown in the picture below.
To get two compartments, topstitch down from the center of the pocket.

Your elasticized pocket is all set! Proceed with assembling the lining part of your handbag.

If you would rather prefer to download this complete tutorial as a pdf file you may purchase it here for only $2.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

A couple of months ago I reviewed a bag sewing pattern as part of Purse Palooza over at Sara's blog. The pattern I tested was the Tandem Tote, a pattern by StudioKat Designs.
The pattern is perfect for geometric fabrics and I decided to go with this orange one. I like the way the orange shades are paired up with a hint of turquoise and navy blue in this print.
I like small bags and this one is just perfect when you only want to carry your essentials like phone, wallet and keys. The measurements are 7" x 7" x 2 ¾".

I did not run into any major problems with this pattern when I assembled the bag. Even though it is one of StudioKatDesigns older patterns with just illustrations and not color photographs I found it very easy to follow the instructions. It is not a beginner pattern, simply because the bag is small and there is a lot of detail work involved like for instance the two zippers. An advanced beginner or an intermediate sewer should have no trouble assembling this bag.

You can read about my bag winning the contest here. I was being told it was a close contest so I am even more happy about winning this! The prize is a certificate I can use to shop for StudioKat Designs products. Yay! This is actually the first time I won anything "sewing related". I have to say it is pretty awesome! How about you? Have you ever been lucky in a contest or a giveaway? If so please leave me a comment, I am very curious :)

Hi everyone!
We are already past mid January, I truly apologize for having been absent for so long but I honestly don't know where time went... The only good thing about it is it brought us 2 weeks closer to spring :)
Anyways, I have come up with a easy and relatively short tutorial on how to make an iPad case! My birthday was on December 20 and as many of you know I spent it in Germany with my family. This iPad mini was a gift from my husband, and thoughtful as he is he gave it to me before I left the US, so that I could already use it on my long flight and while I was home!
Of course I needed to make a stylish case for it and I thought I'd share with you. I hope you like this tutorial. This pattern will fit all iPad models, regardless the size.
This tutorial is free but if you would rather prefer to download this complete tutorial as a pdf file you may purchase it here for only $2.
Happy sewing!

Please read all instructions before you begin.
All cutting measurements given are height x width.
All seam allowances are 1/2” unless stated otherwise.

You need:

- Exterior fabric for outer main body: 1 fat quarter (18” x 22”)
- Lining fabric for inner main body: 1 fat quarter (18” x 22”)
- Heavy fusible stabilizer e. g. Pellon Peltex #71F: no more than a 12” x 22” piece (depends on iPad size)
- Fusible interfacing e. g. Pellon 906F Fusible Sheerweight: 1/3 yd
- 1 piece of hook and loop tape (sew-on): 2”
- Elastic: approx. 1/2 yd (I used ruffle elastic for a more decorative look)

  Below I give the exact measurements for an iPad mini case and the formula to calculate the measurements should you want to make a case for different iPad models.

Cut the following fabric pieces:

A) Outer main body (use exterior fabric) – cut this 1x:

For iPad MINI:
9 1/2" x 12 1/4”

For other iPad models use the following formula to determine the size of the fabric piece:
- Take the height of your iPad and add 1 1/2”: this is the height of your fabric piece.
- Take the width of your iPad and double it. Add the depth of your iPad. Add 1 1/2": this is the width of your fabric piece.

(e. g. if your iPad is 9 1/2” high, your fabric piece will have a height of 11”
          if your iPad is 6 1/2” wide and 1/4" deep your fabric piece will have a width of 14 3/4” )

B) Inner main body (use lining fabric) – cut this 2x:

For iPad MINI:
9 1/2" x 6 5/8”

For other iPad models use the following formula to determine the size of the fabric pieces:
- The height of your fabric pieces will be the same as for the main body outer part.
- Take the width of your main body outer part as measured above. Divide by 2. Add 1/2”: this is the width of your fabric piece.

(e. g. your fabric pieces will be the have the same height as the main body exterior fabric, in this case 11”
If your main body inner fabric was 14 3/4” as measured above your inner main body fabric pieces will have a width of 7 7/8”

C) Heavy fusible stabilizer – cut this 1x

For iPad MINI:
Measurements as given in A). Subtract 1/2" from each of the four edges.

For other iPad models:
Measurements as given in formula under A). Subtract 1/2" from each of the four edges.

D) Fusible interfacing – cut this 2x

For iPad MINI:
Measurements as given in B).

For other iPad models:
Measurements as given in formula under B).

The following parts have the same size regardless of iPad type:

E) Closure tab:

From exterior fabric – cut this 1x:
4 1/2” x 5 1/2”

From heavy fusible stabilizer – cut this 1x:
3 1/2 ” x 4 1/2”


Instructions:

- Fuse interfacing onto the wrong side of the inner main body fabric pieces.
- Fuse heavy stabilizer to the wrong side of the tab closure fabric piece. Make sure to place it centered onto the fabric piece so that there will be no stabilizer on the seam allowance.

1.) Make the inner main body
- Place one of your inner main body fabric pieces right side up and put your iPad centered onto it.
- Place your elastic onto one corner so that it covers the corner of your iPad. It should be positioned loosely, don’t tighten it just yet. Make sure to position the elastic in an angle so that it would cover enough of your iPad to hold it in place but at the same time won’t cover too much of your screen. If you are satisfied with your positioning pin the elastic down on both fabric edges.
- Cut off your elastic and repeat the previous step on the three other corners.

- After pinning down the elastic remove your iPad. Smooth the elastic out to make sure it lies flat on the fabric. You may have to remove some of the pins again and pin it down again.
- Stitch the elastic onto the fabric using a 3/16” seam allowance.

- Place the second inner main body part onto the inner main body part with the elastic attached, right sides together. Make sure that all edges are aligned. Pin in place and sew along the left-hand long edge. Iron the seam open and set aside.

2.) Make the outer main body
- Make the tab closure:
Fold the tab closure fabric piece in half vertically, right sides together. This means that your fabric piece will be 4 1/2” x 2 3/4” after folding. Iron or handpress to make sure you will see the center crease. Unfold again and place the closure tab fabric piece right side up.

- Place the soft part of your hook and loop tape onto your closure tab fabric piece: it should be positioned approx. 1/2" left from the center crease and centered between the top and the bottom edge of the fabric piece. Pin in place and sew the hook and loop tape to the fabric piece using a 1/8” seam allowance.

- Fold your fabric piece in half along the center crease again, right sides together. Pin in place and stitch along both short edges. Turn it right side out.

- Place your closure tab (with the hook and loop tape facing up) onto the outer main body fabric piece. It should be positioned centered on the left-hand side edge of the outer main body fabric piece. The raw edges of both the tab closure piece and the main body piece should be aligned. Pin in place and stitch along the raw edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.

3.) Assemble the iPad case:
- Place the outer main body piece (with the closure tab attached) onto the inner main body piece right sides together. Make sure that the side with the closure tab touches the side with the elastic. Make sure that all edges are aligned and pin in place.

- Sew around all edges but leave an opening of approx. 7” at the side that does not have the closure tab or elastic attached. Trim down the seam allowance and clip the corners. Turn right side out. Fold the seam allowance at the opening down to the inside and iron.

- Find the right spot for the second part of your hook and loop tape:
Take your iPad and put it inside your case. Fold the case in half as if closing it. Take a fabric marker and mark the spot where the hook and loop tape of the closure tab touches the exterior main body.

- Sew the hook and loop tape onto the exterior main body at the spot you marked using a 1/8” seam allowance. You may have to remove the arm of your sewing machine for this step.

- Insert the heavy stabilizer into the casing: Slide it through the opening, match all corners and flatten it out. Make sure it sits nicely inside the case (you will be fusing the stabilizer to the fabric in the very last step when ironing your iPad case).

- Make sure that the seam allowance of the opening is still folded to the inside. Pin in place and topstitch the opening close.

- Finish up your case by ironing it thoroughly. At the same time your stabilizer will be fused to the fabric.

A couple weeks ago I participated in the Sew Sweetness Bag Contest on Sew Mama Sew and I was really thrilled to see that my Petrillo Bag made it to the TOP 15!! There were about 60 entries and my bag got picked by a jury to be among the top 15 bags of the contest. And here is how you can help me:

Everybody can vote for their top 3 favorite entries among the 15 finalists! So please please please take a look at all the awesome bags - and vote for me :) And then vote for two other bags that you like. I promise it is going to be a really tough choice!
See picture below for my bag :)

Thank you so much everyone!! :-*

I am honored to be a guest blogger for Sew Mama Sew!! My review about bag stabilizers was posted two days ago and you can check it out here!

(They also posted a small bio about me which you can find here.)
If you haven't seen it already I would like to invite you to head over to Sew Mama Sew and check out my review. I am sharing my favorite stabilizer product options for making bags, with tips for the best way to use each product. Those products are By Annie's Soft and Stable, Timtex, fast2fuse Heavyweight, Stiff Stuff, Roc-Lon Multipurpose Cloth and two versions of Vilene Decovil which is more common outside the United States.
I hope you will like my review and that it will be helpful to you with your upcoming bag projects. Which stabilizers do you usually use? Maybe there's more out there, that I haven't tried yet? You are welcome to leave me a comment or post a comment over at Sew Mama Sew! :)

Just in time before I will leave for my trip home to Germany I am happy to introduce you to my latest sewing pattern which is now available in my pattern store: the Rhine Valley Bag!

This bag is named after the region where I lived before I moved to the States. I actually grew up close to the area you see on the right-hand side picture and later moved to Mainz, which is a city right on the shore of the beautiful Rhine River, where I lived for eight years.

I actually made a similar version of this bag in the spring and took it with me to Germany. It was the perfect size for hand luggage on the long plane ride. I finally decided to create a sewing pattern and have to say I really love this bag! It is big, it is spacious but so handy at the same time! I hope you like it as much as I do :)

One of my favorite features is the recessed top zipper. Inside the bag there are two 3D shaped slip pockets which easily fit smaller items like your keys or your phone.

Since I like making pleats I added two pleated pockets to the front of the bag. It is actually one large divided pocket, and each compartment closes with a flap and a magnetic snap.

I used store-bought (fake) leather handles for both of my bags but my instructions give you the option to attach fabric handles with rectangular rings in case you don't want to go with store-bought handles.

The pdf file comes with 21 pages of instructions, 56 color photographs and 5 pattern pieces. All measurements are given in centimeters and inches.
The finished size of this bag is 30 x 45 x 10 cm/ 12 x 18 x 4 in (height x width x depth).

Supplies needed:

- Exterior fabric: 1 m or 1 yd
- Lining fabric: 1.30 m or 1 1/3 yd
- Fusible fleece e.g. Pellon 987F: 0.60 m or 2/3 yd
- Fusible interfacing, e. g. Pellon 931 TD:  4.20 m or 4.5 yd
- 1 zipper 46 cm (18”) or longer
- 2 magnetic snaps
- 2 faux leather handles, approx. 55 cm (22”) long

If not using store bought handles you will also need:
- 4 rectangular rings, 3 cm (1.25”) width
- Add 15 cm/ 5” of lining fabric to the amount given above!

Thanks to all the testers who helped me with this project! Have a look at their bags, aren't they all amazing??

Ree from Sincerely, Ree used an animal print for her bag. She says this bag will be perfect for travelling. She acutally made a cute hat using the same fabrics, so please make sure to pop over to her blog and have a look!

Cara from Early Bird Stitches made this wonderful bag. Her items are always so well-finished and I just love the color combo of this one. ,

Tracey from Sew Chubby Cheeks made a "real" travel bag! Her fabric takes up the travel theme and I would say that this is a perfect bag to use as your carry-on luggage :)

This is PJ's bag. The yellow flaps of the front pockets make a really nice contrast to the blue floral print she used for the exterior. PJ also has an Etsy shop, so make sure to check it out!

How cute is the pattern of Susan's bag? I totally love all those happy dots :) Susan used fake leather handles for her bag which give her bag look a real professional finish.

Sarah from Prairie Girl Knits chose this really great color combo for her Rhine Valley Bag. I mean, a big bag made entirely with pink lining? Awesome!!

Silvia used a really cute animal print for her bag. The lining actually shows chicken and roosters! She used fake leather handles for the first time and they turned out really nicely.

Marcia from Sew Inspired chose this really colorful floral print for her Rhine Valley Bag. Marcia teaches sewing classes so I am not surprised that her bags always look so well finished!

I love the pattern of Erin's bag! The tree theme is really fun and the colors match perfectly. I can totally see why Erin says she is a little sad to be giving this bag away!

This is Jenny's Rhine Valley Bag. She chose a floral print for the exterior and says she especially loved making the recessed zipper, as it turns out they are not that hard to make. I am glad to hear that :)

Janet said the suede cloth she used for her bag was a little tricky to sew. She still managed to sew up a really cool Rhine Valley Bag!

Patti used braided handles for her bag. They go very well with the fabric she used, Heritage Studio Collection by Fabric Traditions.

How gorgoeous is that leaf print of Vicky's bag?? She actually had two fabrics at first and couldn't decide which one to use. I like her choice :) Vicky sells awesome things and blogs at Vicky Myers Creations so make sure to stop by!

Tonya used a fake leather for the exterior and matched it with a purple cotton for the lining and the pocket flaps. I agree with her that these two fabrics look wonderful together!

I really hope you like my new design. I always prefered smaller handbags but the big ones are really growing on me :) Are you more of a big bag or a small bag girl? I would love to know!

Happy Sunday everyone :) It is really cold here and I decided that this is a perfect chance to spend all Sunday sitting on my sewing machine! I bought some new fabrics yesterday - I posted earlier today on Facebook - and will make them into a bag of some sort (what else??).

Just wanted to show you some of my latest creations, all completed last week. Maybe this will give you some inspiration for a Sunday project of your own :))

Fabrics I bought yesterday:
- Flora from the Impressions Collection by Ty Pennington
- Bear Essentials 2 by P & B Textiles (turquoise)
- Classic Elements by P & B Textiles (gray)

The following items I actually made for a review that I am working on right now, which will be posted on Sew Mama Sew in December:

A Classy Clutch:

Exterior fabric: The Painted Garden by Dena Designs for Free Spirit

Lining fabric: Dear Stella

A small purse that can be used as a clutch, a wristlet or worn across the body. This is a new design that I made up rather spontaneously :) I will probably make a sewing pattern from this. It could even be a nice beginner pattern, since it is fairly easy to make but still has a little bit of embellishment and uses some hardware (hence is not too boring. That was my point :))

This pattern is an old Burda bag sewing pattern that I found in my stash. I had a little bit of that beautiful purple fabric left and decided to use it for this bag design (I previoulsy made a California Sunshine Bag with this fabric).

Exterior fabric: "Queen Anne's Lace" from the Piper Collection by Dear Stella
Lining fabric: "Citron" from Garden Pindot by Michael Miller

Happy sewing  and stay warm :)

I am really excited to introduce you to my latest sewing pattern, the All Day Out Bag! This pdf sewing pattern is now available in my pattern store.
But before I will tell you a bit more about this pattern, there is this:
Not too long ago I asked you to suggest names for the bag and I would like to thank all of you who did so! It was a tough choice but in the end I picked a winner:

Congratulations Norma! You will get the pdf pattern for free, I will send it to you right after I am done finishing this blog post :)

The most striking feature of this bag is probably the front pocket with its slanted edges but you will dicover a lot more awesome details to this pattern: in addition to the roomy main compartment there is another slip pocket on the inside as well as a divided elasticized pocket. On the back there is a 3D shaped pouch, which will allow you to store even more items in this spacious handbag. The strap is attached with two rivets on either side.

The pdf file comes with 30 pages of instructions, 61 pictures and 9 pattern pieces. All measurements are given in centimeters and inches.
The finished size of this bag is 24 x 32 x 8 cm/ 9.5" x 12.5" x 3.25" (height x width x depth).

Supplies needed:
- Exterior fabric: 1.20 m or 1 1/4 yd
- Lining fabric: 2/3 m or 3/4 yd
- Fusible fleece e.g. Pellon 987F: 2/3 m or 3/4 yd
- Fusible interfacing, e. g. Pellon 931 TD:  1.80 m or 2 yd
- 2 O-rings (2.5 cm / 1” diameter)
- 2 magnetic snaps
- 1 piece of elastic (1 cm (3/8”) wide): approx. 32 cm or 12.5”
- 4 rivets

Thank you to all my testers who were such a great help, as always! Please check out how beautiful their bags turned out:

Carol says she has a preference for bright colors. I think her bag looks awesome, especially with the contrast of exterior and lining fabric!

Sarah from Prairie Girl Knits used velvet and a wool blend for her bag. She mentioned that it was a bit harder to sew with these kinds of fabrics but I think the result looks gorgeous (have you noticed those sparkly rivets??)!

Janet's version looks so sophisticated! She used a black/charcoal pin stripe for the exterior and a green cotton fabric for the lining, the pockets and the bag flap.

This is Tonya's bag. She used a burgundy fine wale corduroy and a brightly colored cotton print as a nice contrast. Her granddaughter liked her bag so much she declared it her own :)

Jenniffer's bag comes in plaid wool fabric that she found in a thrift store! Look how perfectly she lined up the main panel and the slanted front pockets! I like pink so needless to say I love her bag :)

Kim used contrasting fabrics for her All Day Out Bag. She said she especially liked the pleat on the flap of the pouch. I am glad to hear that :)

DeeAnn used blue shades for her All Day Out Bag. I especially like the look of the pouch with the paisley pattern. She made the lining show at the top edge of the front pocket on purpose which adds a nice touch to the bag!

This is Heidi's wonderful bag. I don't know what I like more about her bag: the great pattern of the fabric or the fact that the fussy cut on the front just came out perfectly!!

And another one with perfect fussy cut on the front!! Dee used IKEA furnishing fabric for her All Day Out Bag. I love the color combo black, white and red!

The last one in the row is Patti's bag. She said she really likes the shape of it and the fact that it is so roomy. Patti stitched the strap instead of using rivets.

You can purchase the pdf pattern in my pattern store. Do you like this design? I would love to hear your opinion!
Happy sewing :)